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You certainly can wear gloves, but it's not a requirement.

A lot depends on the type of glass you're looking for. From borosilicate crystal to lead crystal to float glass. Different location for different types of glass.

@@hisglassworksinc I’m probably looking for borosilicate crystal.

@@wackyvorlon Try cdgmglass.com

Thanks so much!

Glad it's helpful.

Sounds like a great idea. A little heavier to move around than float glass, but would last longer as a flat substrate.

I would typically move to two different pumice steps after this with a scotch brite pad to hand finish the glass. There are cerium impregnated hand pads that can be used to polish by hand as well. We may make a video showing the full routine.

Glad it was helpful!

We have a full video on wine bottle cutting and grinding here: ua-cam.com/video/EiKJ9eSqEnY/v-deo.html

Farenheit, definitely. That hot in Celcius would break the glass.

vitreous enamel polishing would follow a lot of same processes shown for solid glass polising as it is just a thin layer of glass over the ceramic or porcelain. You just have to remember that the enamel is a thin layer and not to overdo any shaping or removal before polishing.

It can, but I've found that the synthetic felt works better for pumice than the LP66.

@@hisglassworksinc ok excellent thank you so much

@@dude7189 You're very welcome

The MK saw is no longer being produced as MK is out of business but any decent wet saw will work. The blade is the important thing and we use this blade for bottle cutting: www.hisglassworks.com/grinding-tools/blades/fine-cut-blades/husqvarna-superlok-glass.html The grinder is the Covington variable speed 12-inch: www.hisglassworks.com/covington-variable-speed-12-inch-flat-lap-grinder.html but you can also use the Maxi-Lap for bottles: www.hisglassworks.com/10-inch-maxi-lap-grinder-with-steel-wheel-head.html

As long as it's a silica based enamel, cerium should work on it.

Yes, a pumice step will substantially reduce polish time. This is especially true when polishing on a lathe where you have less surface contact on the glass.

@@hisglassworksinc also on a flatbed...

@@heukelummer True, just more difficult to use pumice. It will work okay with a synthetic felt pad, but it really requires either a cork pad or a Polpur MJ wheel on a flat bed to work well for pumice.

@@hisglassworksinc i use a 60cm polyurethane flatwheel and have a little conical shape,so i dont have to apply to much pressure and use a plastic water bottle with a tiny hole to apply a constant water drip.

Just updated with a new video on Pumice.

One of the pieces we used to make when we had an operating glass studio as well.

Our grinders are listed here: www.hisglassworks.com/machinery/flat-grinders/small-grinders.html

This is typically done with larger, heavier pieces to grind them, so the process would be similar. Not sure why you would bother with something so small and light though

Gotta love a shop sink. We have cleaned it since this video.

@hisglassworkssinc, I am awaiting your response, sir.

It depends on what you need to do with the glass tubes as the best options. Please email us at support at hisglassworks.com

HXTAL is not as susceptible to humidity as Flex-Tec, but it does cure best at around 68-72 degrees F with about 40% relative humidity. Part A of HXTAL can absorb moisture so it can cause issues in high humidity environments.

You can find it on our website here: www.hisglassworks.com/machinery/flat-grinders/small-grinders.html

If the 100-grit is doing most of the removal, then you'll be on that disk longer and wear the diamonds faster, yes.

We're using the Covington 12-inch flat lap grinder listed here: www.hisglassworks.com/machinery/flat-grinders/small-grinders/covington-variable-speed-12-inch-flat-lap-grinder.html

We recommend the Superlok Glass+ blade for bottle cutting: www.hisglassworks.com/grinding-tools/blades/fine-cut-blades/husqvarna-superlok-glass.html

We cast that in our shop

I would say anything over around 5mm facet size will work well with a 325-grit over the 500-grit

@@hisglassworksinc So, for a surface with a diameter smaller than 5 mm, I can directly use the 600 pad, and for a surface larger than 5 mm, I must start with the 325 pad. Have I understood correctly?

For single-layer electroplated diamonds, it would be a destructive use and significantly reduce the lifespan of the tool. This is best used on sintered diamond tools that have multiple layers of diamond on the tool.

The typical OD on the drill is 1-3/4 inch and the countersink is about 2-1/4 inch OD

The slide tray will be slightly different for each saw. I'm not even sure if MK has slide trays as we haven't been able to get saws from them for over a year and half now

You're moving to a cerium oxide step after the 325 resin diamond, correct? Are you using a felt pad or LP66? The polishing step will take much longer than the grinding steps and it's important not to use too much cerium or it behaves like a lubricant. Less is more when it comes to cerium oxide on the polishing pad.

Hello @hisglassworksinc , when I finish with the 270 grit, the surface is quite frosty. Then I use the 325 smoothing pad, but even if I repeat the process 5 times (doing the quarter turns) I can’t get a clean surface with no scratches 🤥, like you show in the video. I don’t know where is the problem. How can I remove them IYO before following the polishing process? Thank you very much.

@@user-wr4yy4iu2q You may be using too much water on the 325-grit and are hydroplaning. The resin disks require far less water than the electroplated to work. The same could be true on the 270-grit. Much less water or you can hydroplane above the diamonds on the disk surface. Try reducing the water on those two pads and see if it helps

Hello @@hisglassworksinc, I’ve tried to put less water, and I obtain better results. Unfortunately, I can’t remove all the scratches. Do you think I need another disk between the 270 electroplated disk and the 325 smoothing pad to remove the deeper scratches? Thank you very much again. 😊

@@user-wr4yy4iu2q Not typically, no. You can try a 220-grit resin diamond pad after the 270-grit electroplated and it should fix all those issues, but I generally don't see the need for those except on very larger surface areas.

I'm not sure what you are using the charcoal for? Can you elaborate?

@@hisglassworksinc oh my bad, it is Coal tar & Broza Gum Rosin

@@saqibhussain7217 Still not sure what you are using Coal Tar for?

@@hisglassworksinc coal Tar for making lens block.

Cerium will separate from the water when you make the slurry. YOu'll need to shake it up each time you use it to get it back into suspension.

Thanks a lot

Yes, any soft bristled brush will work to clean excess ground glass off the wheel.

Typically HXTAL will not bond to plastics.

We have some customers working a thousand bottles a day in production

everything is available from our website at www.hisglassworks.com

You don't really need to use much pressure with either system. The diamond disk will have more "grab" to it as soon as you put the glass down so it's mostly holding the piece to keep it from coming out of your hands. Loose grit grinding can also generate a lot of suction on larger surface areas as you work so it can "rip" the glass right out of your hands as you work so it's a good idea to keep a good grip on the glass with both processes

Silicon Carbide is available from our site here: www.hisglassworks.com/loose-grit/silicon-carbide.html

It depends on the type of glass work you need to do

@@hisglassworksinc : I work with Absolut, Belvedere and Grey Goose vodka bottles

@@rubermejo I would recommend, at minimum, the 12-inch Covington: www.hisglassworks.com/machinery/flat-grinders/small-grinders/covington-variable-speed-12-inch-flat-lap-grinder.html Those bottles are a little thicker so the larger grinder is a better choice.

Thank you !@@hisglassworksinc

What discs do you recommend for this machine?@@hisglassworksinc

We have never tried this with steel or cast iron. Only with glass and stone. I'm just not sure how well it would perform on those.

@@hisglassworksinc Thanks for the speedy reply on a 10yo vid! The manufacturer does state it works with metal well, was just asking if you had any real world experience. I'll keep asking around.

@@mattedger Sounds good. Hope you find what you need, information wise.